Postcard from Tunisia

With the Powerboat P1 championship returning to Tunisia after a five-year break, we thought this an ideal opportunity to take a trip out of the dry pits and see some of the local charms

We go to some pretty interesting places on Powerboat P1’s global tour of the world’s hottest offshore racing spots. So, given that we’re in perhaps the most exotic stop of the calendar so far (in the shape of Tunisia), we thought it might be a good idea to give you a taste of our latest stop.

After the quiet charm of the San Benedetto del Tronto beach resort in Italy, the hustle and bustle of busy Marseille in France and the historic vistas of scenic Valletta in Malta, Tunisia and host city Hammamet offer a very different – yet no less intriguing – ambience.

Coming in to land at Tunis-Carthage airport, you instantly get the feeling that you’re a long way outside of mainland Europe. Although Tunis is in the more fertile northern part of Tunisia, the landscape is still swathed in a desert-like swatch of light browns and sandy yellows that is step beyond even the more barren parts of Spain. But, despite the geographical change, you never feel outside your comfort zone. The majority of signs in the airport, out on the roads and in the towns are in English, as well as Arabic, while French is widely spoken.

Driving is (how best to put this?) an interesting experience. “Expect the unexpected” is perhaps the best philosophy, as the locals (and especially the taxis) have a habit of making some surprise moves. That’s especially true at chaotic crossroads, where – to be frank – pretty much anything goes, and it’s survival of the fittest, quickest and boldest. To be fair, it’s not that much different from driving in certain parts of Europe, but you have to wonder why Tunisia has not produced a championship-winning touring car driver. This is the ultimate proving ground for the cut, thrust and bump of the race circuit.

Hammamet itself provides a unique venue for Powerboat P1, which is returning to Tunisia after a five-year sabbatical. There are two distinct parts to the city. Firstly, there’s the more modern Yasmine Hammamet – a dedicated tourist hotspot, with plenty of quality hotels offering a wide array of activities for mums, dad, kids (and kids of all ages), as well as access to some classy restaurants around the marina that plays host to the Powerboat P1 teams this weekend.

Several kilometres of sandy beaches offer a perfect sunbathing spot, and – with summer midday temperatures of 40C, it’s ideal for hard-core bronzers, although it’s never overbearing for those who just want a light sautéing. The marina and beaches look like they’re going to be a perfect spot for watching the Evolution and SuperSport races, as the course pans out and back again along the coast.

But Hammamet isn’t all just about modern sun in the fun. There’s a traditional side to the city as well. About 20 minutes drive back down the coast is the centre of old Hammamet, complete with the classic old Medina fort that has now become a haven for purveyors of traditional hand-crafted goods. Tourists will need to adopt some of the defensive savvy of the old occupants of the Medina, though, as the merchants seem to have learned something from now ubiquitously global US sales techniques.

Every merchant is quick to approach a visiting tourist – especially those who, like myself, still have clearly yet to pick up a summer tan. Every bit of patter is unique, from the simple tradesmen who insist you must stop at their stand because it’s “the best” to the rather canny chap who managed to keep me occupied for five minutes trying to convince me that he was a waiter at my hotel and that he’d seen me in the restaurant last night. (The fact I hadn’t eaten in the hotel didn’t seem to diminish his conviction).

As you can imagine, it requires a fairly stern resistance to their sales patter to avoid getting bogged down in one shop, while – as expected in North Africa – haggling is a must. Still, it’s all pleasantly fun stuff, and although in some stalls it’s definitely a case of ‘buyer beware’, there are genuinely some quality-looking bargains to be had.

This is part of the charm of North Africa, though. It’s totally different to anywhere else around the Mediterranean and it’s what makes it such a unique and welcome stop on the Powerboat P1 calendar. Now, if you’ll excuse me, there’s some tanning time before the racing gets underway…